Istanbul

We had two favorite days in Istanbul – both of them out of the center.

 The first day, we started up at the western outskirts of the city at the Chora Church and Kariye Muzesi – with the most gorgeous mosaics.  Then we started the long walk back into town – mostly downhill! – going through wonderful local neighborhoods and stopping at all the mosques on the way.  (Women should bring or wear a sweater and carry a scarf – coverings for arms and head.) So, we walked down the Draman Cadesi to the Fethiye Caddesi, and stopped at the Fethiye Camii.  Then down the Manyasizade Caddesi and the Darussafaka Caddesi (stopping at many very small mosques) to the Fatih Mosque (where they let us attend service – I sat with the women -- who were very hospitable).  Then we made our way downhill, a little towards the Ataturk bridge to a lovely terrace restaurant – Zeirekhane (part of the Zeyrek Camii, the Church of Christ Pantocrator) on Ibadethane/Arkasi sk. -- with gorgeous views over the city.  Had a little to eat and some nice wine.  Then we walked back into town and went to the Grand Bazaar.

 Another day, we took the boat up to Eyup, to the mosque of Eyup.  He was Mohammed’s standardbearer during the siege of Constantinople and he is buried at the mosque.  His tomb is a shrine and this mosque is the third most popular pilgrimage shrine.  The crowds are wonderful – all the little boys in their white suits come here before they go home to be circumcised – and the ride to and fro and the view is spectacular.  Afterwards, we took the ferry back to Eminonu and then went to the Rustem Pasa Camii (small, lovely mosque) the spice bazaar and then the Suleymaniye Camii – and there are some nice cafes across the street.

 We had a very nice trip to the Asian side one day – went from Besiktas to Uskudar.  If you do that, there’s a nice lunch (not so atmospheric but good food that they let you pick out yourself) down towards the harbor at a place called Kanaat. 

 In the evening, once, you should go down the Nevizade Sokak – a crowded, lively, closed-to-cars street with wall-to-wall sidewalk restaurants.  We ate at a Greek restaurant (Imroz) that was just okay – but you can just pick any one of the many and sit outside and enjoy the people and eat a fairly good meal. 

And two places were recommended to us by Turkish people that we never got to.  First, a “pudding shop” on Divan Yolu Caddesi.  (Who knows?)  And second, a restaurant in Kadikoy – The Giya – near Altunizade Mabeyin – recommended for lunch or dinner.  I think the pudding shop sounds wonderful.

 There are some mosques that are supposed to be great on the Asian side that we never got to – all by the same architect – Sinan – one is Semsi Pasa Camii and the other is Atik Valide Camii.   Also 2 cafés with panoramic views– Yucetepe Kir Gazinosu and Katibim – missed them also.  We’ll just have to go back.