General Paris Info
Telephone
In Paris – all phone numbers (except cell phones) begin 01 – and then 4 pairs (ie. Eight numbers) – so 01-56-24-37-56 would be given as “zero un, cinquante-six, vingt-quatre, trente-sept, cinquante-six.
To dial U.S. dial 001 and then area code and number.
Transportation
Metro Nearest to you is Odéon. Mabillon, Saint Germain des Prés, Saint Sulpice are also nearby.
Nearby bus lines: 39, 48, 63, 70, 84, 86, 87, 95, 96.
Taxi stand is at the corner of rue du Four and Bd. Saint Germain (on BNP [i.e. north] side of rue du Four. To call a taxi from that stand: 01-43-29-00-00) There is almost certainly a taxi stand at Odéon. Get the phone number – listed at the stand. And then you can always call for a cab. Or just go to the stand and sooner rather than later one will come along. (Remember that many of the bus lines stop running between 9 and 10 in the evening so you may want to take a taxi home – or the metro which runs until 1 am.)
In Odéon metro or St. Germain metro you can buy a carnet des billets (10 tickets) good for bus or subway. Or, bring 2 extra passport pictures and – at same subway stations – buy a carte d”orange. I think you might have to buy one for a month (mensuel) or maybe weekly (hebdomadaire) – but they run from Monday to Monday – so if you buy the weekly try to do it at its beginning. And monthly means just that – October, November, etc. I found the carte d’orange an enormous convenience – it let me hop on and off busses without thinking about the cost or about whether I had another billet.
I have also learned to love the bus in Paris. It goes everywhere very quickly and you get to see the terrain as you go.
We also have, courtesy of our first landlady (Julie Frey) a wonderful private taxi-man who we use to take us to the airport when we leave. His name is Nejib Fejjari (just call him Nejib – neh-geeb) who will pick you up in his station wagon-taxi on time at your address and take you to CDG for around 50 euros plus tip. He speaks excellent English. He will also pick you up on your arrival – he’ll carry a sign with your name on it and meet you at the gate. On arrival, he’ll charge you for the time he waits for you plus the cost of the ride in. His mobile number is 06-60-33-26-27. His telephone is 01-60-04-48-83. He speaks English, and will carry a sign with your name on it, meet you at the gate. He charges for the time he waits for you plus the cost of the ride in.
Money exchange
By far the easiest way to get Euros is to use a bank debit card with an international PIN – there’s an ATM machine about every two feet along St. Germain. I used the one at the corner of Mabillon and the rue du Four, or the one at the corner of St. Germain and Odéon. They give you the best exchange rate of the minute.
Getting into your building
The outside door to most every building is locked. It has a key but everyone always uses the pushbutton code to get in. After you enter your code you’ll hear a click – then push the door open. Then you’ll be in a dark hallway. Somewhere near the door you’ll see two lighted buttons – push the one marked lumière.
The other button -- marked “porte” -- is the one you’ll have to push when you want to go out.
The lights are on timers, and stay on for about a minute. If you ever find yourself trapped in a dark hallway, look for a little light-- it will probably have the light button -- minuterie [me-new-TREE] attached to it.
Movies, Concerts, etc.
Every Wednesday buy Pariscope – a little magazine printed on very thin paper that costs 60 cents and will tell you everything that’s going on in Paris – movies, concerts, plays, museums, etc.
Movies: change every Wednesday all over Paris. There are three large movie theaters in Odéon each of which shows 4 movies at a time. When choosing a movie (either at the theatre or in Pariscope) make certain in the description of English language movies that it says “V.O,” which stands for “version originale.” (Otherwise, it might have been dubbed into French.)
If you go to the movies, buy whatever you want to munch on somewhere else – they have nothing in the theatre.
Food Shopping
Basic grocery supplies are cheapest at two nearby supermarchés: Monoprix (50 rue de Rennes at the corner of St. Germain), and Champion—closer to you with entrances on the rue de Seine and the rue de Buci. Both deliver for about 10 euros, and are good for staples (toilet paper, toothbrushes, booze, etc.). Good wines, coffee, jams, canned goods, etc.
Also, Monoprix is good for anything – nightgowns, underwear, t-shirts, coffee mugs, scotchtape – they’re all over but the one at St. Germain is particularly excellent.
On the rue Quatre Vents which is quite near you is a small but well-stocked grocery store (basics, wine, and fruits and veg) that stays open until 11 pm every night. Very handy.
Lovely neighborhood wine store – La Derniere Goutte – at 6, rue Bourbon le Chateau (at the corner of rue de l’Échaudé). They put up notices about tastings and it’s fun to go – although in terms of buying wines I did just as well at Champion.
The Saint Germain market has marvelous food of all sorts, from 7am-1pm Tues-Sun and 4-7:30pm Tues-Sat. (closed Mon.).
Dry Cleaning & Laundry
A nice dry-cleaner and laundry is on rue de Seine ½ block south of St. Germain. A do-it yourself laundry is on the rue Lobineau.
Bakeries
At the corner of the rue de Seine and the rue Lobineau is Gérard MULOT (closed Weds.) one of the best "traiteurs" in Paris. In addition to having fabulous macaroons, divine bread, wonderful cakes they also have a wide range of cooked dishes to take home, and wonderful homemade candies. This is definitely the best place in the neighborhood to buy bread – baked fresh 3 or 4 times per day. Also very nice sandwiches to take with you for the plane ride home.
More haute (not for bread but for beautiful cakes and very fancy macaroons and chocolates) is Pierre Hermé on the rue Bonaparte – just off the corner of the rue aux Vieux Colombier.
Not in the neighborhood – but while I’m on bakeries I have to mention them – is Louis Constant on the rue d”Assas and the rue Fleurus – fabulous chocolates and great pain raisin and pain chocolat.
Also, a bakery that is also a good place for lunch—Bread and Roses – on the corner of the rue Madame and the rue Fleurus.
And, the name unknown bakery on the main street of the Ile St. Louis – the rue St. Louis en l”isle—just across from the Catholic school and church. We have not been able to decide which of the two (Constant or this) has the better pain raisin.
Neighborhood Restaurants
Two Cafes – nice lunches, salads, sandwiches, omlettes –
1) Chaix (sp?) de L’Abbaye at the corner of the rue de Seine and the rue de Bourbon le Chateaux. I love this café.
2) At the Carrefour croix Rouge – the only café on the circle – near the rue de Grenelle – wonderful open-faced sandwiches – great if you’ve been shopping.
NB: All French restaurants like to have been called – even if only a half an hour ahead of time – to be asked if they have a table. Being taken for granted seems to make them huffy. So, if we’re on the way to a restaurant, I’ll call them on my cell phone and ask if they could have a table for us 15 minutes from then.
01 43 26 30 05
A real neighborhood, old-fashioned place – delicious and open until 11:30 at night! Not cheap but not expensive – a good meal and wine for $25-30 per.
You probably need to reserve on Friday or Sat evening. Also lovely for lunch in cool weather – only a small sidewalk for outside eating.
4, Carrefour de l’Odeon
8 to 2h du matin
A new literary café – moderately expensive for what it is but a nice place to get a drink and watch the crowd.
Right across the street from Les Editeurs and now a hot, hot restaurant. 9, Carrefour de l’Odéon. 01 44 27 07 97. Hard to get a dinner reservation but you can try. And if you show up for lunch (no reservations then) you can sometimes get a table. Good food and very small bistro-ish.
Bon Saint Pourcain
10 bis rue Servadoni
01 43 54 93 63
A tiny, tiny restaurant behind St. Sculpice. Lovely on a cold evening.
Allard
rue des St. André des Arts – corner of rue de l”Éperon
A charming old-line bistro that has seen better days but is still really good. Have anything with beurre blanc.
53, Quai des Grands Augustins
75006
01 43 25 45 94
email: bouquinistes@guysavoy.com
The restaurant of the son of Guy Savoy – very chic, very delicious, a bit expensive, fun.
4 rue des Grands Augustins
01 44 32 00 32
email: zekitchen.galerie@wanadoo.fr
Also very “in” and not inexpensive – fun, minimalist décor and really good food.
80 rue Mazarine
01-43-25-71-16
Another neighborhood restaurant – good but not as good as Charpentiers.
Food in the 3rd
L’Apparemment
18, rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais
01 48 87 12 22
Behind Picasso Museum – lots of couches – very good, large salads – for lunch.
20, rue St. Martin
01 42 72 25 76
Our favorite. We had partridge here on thanksgiving day. And we’ve had many wonderful meals here over the years. It’s great, old-fashioned bistro cooking. (The Petit family has been cooking here for 3 generations.) Ask to sit in the front room. Have whatever game is on the menu or some wonderful beef in red wine. And have 3 deserts: the cold grand marnier soufflé, the gateau pruneau and the lemon tart. And say hello to Ghislaine – the lady who will greet you at the door.
They are open from 12 to 2 and from 8 to 10. Must reserve!
NB: Last year the restaurant was sold to a big restauranteur (I forget which) and the menu has changed. But it’s still good – and in the fall you can have game.
3, rue des Rosiers
Pleasantly run-down stylish, shabby chic, very popular place for lunch, brunch, tea. Lots of people with their children, young things on sofas. If you go on Saturday or Sunday you’ll never get in.
Right down the block from the most expensive shopping in Paris. Browse in L’eclaireur for beautiful clothes that cost as much as a house.
Janou (or chez Janou?) 2 rue Roger Verlomme. 01 42 72 28 41. Lovely to eat outside – must have the chocolate mousse for dessert.
Caveau du Palais
Place Dauphine – western tip of Ile de la Cité
01 43 26 04 28
Lovely eating out in one of the most charming spots – food is perfectly pleasant.
Institut du Monde Arabe, 9th Floor
1, rue des Fosses Saint-. 01-53-10-10-16
Enormously elegant, chic, restaurant on top of the Institut – with a great view of Paris and a beautiful terrace for a drink. Lovely for lunch. Reservations .
53 rue de Verneuil
01 42 22 52 17
If you find yourself at the Musée d’Orsay at lunch or tea time this is a nice spot with a cool interior garden that serves good scandivian food. No need to reserve – just show up.
11 bis rue Chomel
01-45-48-87-87
Soufflés of all descriptions – meat, desert – and truly scrumptious. Have the caramel and sel. Most fun to go for lunch and a reservation is an absolute must. Ask to sit in the front room – the back room is very small and cramped. It’s also around the corner from Bon Marché, so you can do some shopping before or after.
Rue montalembert
11:30 – 15:30 or 6:30 – 24:00
01-42-22-56-56
This is the chicest and most delicious and most ridiculous of them all. They don’t take reservations --- unless you’re willing to come at 11:30 am or 6:30 pm, the hours at which they open. The rest of the time you come to the door (black glass) which you cannot open and the hostess comes to the door, takes your name, and tells you to come back in X minutes (30, 45 – whatever). We went at 3:00 in the afternoon on a day that we were going to the opera – and then just had a snack after the opera. Food is great.
Museums
Within easy walking distance is the Musee du Luxembourg and the Musee d’Orsay. I think the Orsay has become a big pain in the ass – endlessly crowded – but if they have a show you want to see it’s okay. There’s a restaurant around the corner that’s really nice –
The Musee du Luxembourg has wonderful small shows – go – or reserve first on line and then go. I don’t know what’s on right now unless the Arcimboldo show is still on. After that it’s Vlaminck. You can reserve at time and tickets on line.
Tickets -- while we’re on the subject any tickets you order on line can be picked up at the FNAC store on Blvd St. Germain just one block past (east of) Odeon. Or you can also go there to buy tickets for just about anything – concerts, museums, events in churches….
The Musee d”Architecture et Patrimoine has just re-opened – absolutely wonderful models and drawings of all of France’s major monuments. Not really our cup of tea but really smart, reliable people have said it’s a must go.
And down the block is the Musee de Tokyo – contemporary art – with a really nice place for lunch and a great gift and bookshop.
The Musee Jacquemart-Andre on the Blvd Hausmann is often overlooked but it’s very good. It often has good traveling shows and some of my favorite Rembrandts and Tiepolos. And right now, Fragonard, I think.
And The Grand Palais has a Courbet show right now – wish I were there! They have wonderful shows that are way too large but often just wonderful in an encyclopedic sort of way.
We had two favorite days in Istanbul – both of them out of the center.
The first day, we started up at the western outskirts of the city at the Chora Church and Kariye Muzesi – with the most gorgeous mosaics. Then we started the long walk back into town – mostly downhill! – going through wonderful local neighborhoods and stopping at all the mosques on the way. (Women should bring or wear a sweater and carry a scarf – coverings for arms and head.) So, we walked down the Draman Cadesi to the Fethiye Caddesi, and stopped at the Fethiye Camii. Then down the Manyasizade Caddesi and the Darussafaka Caddesi (stopping at many very small mosques) to the Fatih Mosque (where they let us attend service – I sat with the women -- who were very hospitable). Then we made our way downhill, a little towards the Ataturk bridge to a lovely terrace restaurant – Zeirekhane (part of the Zeyrek Camii, the Church of Christ Pantocrator) on Ibadethane/Arkasi sk. -- with gorgeous views over the city. Had a little to eat and some nice wine. Then we walked back into town and went to the Grand Bazaar.
Another day, we took the boat up to Eyup, to the mosque of Eyup. He was Mohammed’s standardbearer during the siege of Constantinople and he is buried at the mosque. His tomb is a shrine and this mosque is the third most popular pilgrimage shrine. The crowds are wonderful – all the little boys in their white suits come here before they go home to be circumcised – and the ride to and fro and the view is spectacular. Afterwards, we took the ferry back to Eminonu and then went to the Rustem Pasa Camii (small, lovely mosque) the spice bazaar and then the Suleymaniye Camii – and there are some nice cafes across the street.
We had a very nice trip to the Asian side one day – went from Besiktas to Uskudar. If you do that, there’s a nice lunch (not so atmospheric but good food that they let you pick out yourself) down towards the harbor at a place called Kanaat.
In the evening, once, you should go down the Nevizade Sokak – a crowded, lively, closed-to-cars street with wall-to-wall sidewalk restaurants. We ate at a Greek restaurant (Imroz) that was just okay – but you can just pick any one of the many and sit outside and enjoy the people and eat a fairly good meal.
And two places were recommended to us by Turkish people that we never got to. First, a “pudding shop” on Divan Yolu Caddesi. (Who knows?) And second, a restaurant in Kadikoy – The Giya – near Altunizade Mabeyin – recommended for lunch or dinner. I think the pudding shop sounds wonderful.
There are some mosques that are supposed to be great on the Asian side that we never got to – all by the same architect – Sinan – one is Semsi Pasa Camii and the other is Atik Valide Camii. Also 2 cafés with panoramic views– Yucetepe Kir Gazinosu and Katibim – missed them also. We’ll just have to go back.
Here are some notes on Florence – mostly about wonderful things that people and guide books tell you too little about.
First of all, I suppose you have to go to the Uffizi and see the David but I think that both of these activities are a waste of time. They are incredibly crowded – even if you reserve your tickets ahead of time – and you can’t really look at the art – it’s basically like being herded through a supermarket, shuffling at top speed while trying to look at each box and jar. The Duomo and the baptistery doors are somewhat better as experiences – and easier and quicker too. The Laurentian library and the Medici tombs are interesting – but I don’t really like Michaelangelo or sculpture all that much.
Here what I love in Florence –
At the same time – since they are around the corner from one another – you should see the monastery of San Marco where Fra Angelico lived and where there are scores of his fabulous frescoes – this is a do not miss. And then right around the corner is a tiny cloister – this is a ‘best kept secret’ – nobody goes there – It’s the Cloister of the Scalzi – the Chiostro degli Scalzi. This was a cloister for a confraternity dedicated to St. John the Baptist. They met and walked barefoot (Scalzo) around the cloister as they prayed for the poor and those condemned to death. Andrea del Sarto, the late Renaissance painter who was a follower of Raphael, was the brother-in-law of one of the brothers and he “decorated” the cloister (which is tiny – about the size of my living room) with gorgeous trompe l’oeil monochrome frescoes of the life of St. John. It’s sensationally wonderful and you’ll be there all by yourself. BUT you have to call first to make sure that the young woman who looks after it for the city will be there. The address is 69 Via Cavour and the phone number is 055 2388604. Just call and make a date – or sometimes they’re open Mon, thurs, Sat from 8:30 to 14:00.
Also north of the Duomo (as are the above) is the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, also on the Via Cavour near the Piazza S. Lorenzo. In the Palazzo is a small chapel – really small – whose walls are covered with Benozzo Gozzoli’s Procession of the Magi with Cosimo de’ Medici in the procession. It’s a magical sort of Where’s Waldo fresco and, once again, you’ll be all alone there.
South of the river – really the nicest part of town – are several things not to miss –
First, there is (just across the Ponte Vecchio) the church of Santa Felicita – just to the right as you walk in – behind an iron railing – is Pontormo’s “Deposition of Christ” a masterpiece of mannerism and just a fantastic work. You will have to put a coin in the light box to see it and when the light goes on …. Wow. Many people think it’s the single greatest work of art in Florence. I may agree.
Also on the oltro’Arno is Santo Spirito which is my favorite church in Florence and also my favorite neighborhood. There’s a very good and very well-priced restaurant right on the square – the Borgo Antico. We had lunch there twice – the phone is 055 210437 but I don’t know if you can make a reservation. Just show up and wait a minute and you’ll get a table. There are various markets that take place in the square – I don’t know which days – but there’s a lovely food market. Also, a little further south of the square is a lovely café – the Caffe Notte (on the Via delle Caldaie) and it’s sort of an “antique row” – fun to look around in shop windows and shop for clothes and shoes and stationery.
I think you will love Florence if you can resist the temptation to go to the things you think you should see – where you will be packed in like a sardine (we were last there in March and it was still jammed) – and go to these wonderful less-travelled places. You can always lie –you loved the Uffizi, the David was amazing – and no one will ever know….
