No noise, no schmutz, no schmertz.

-- Ad Reinhardt

Sterilizing Jam & Jelly Jars

It's not necessary to boil the jars again once they've been filled with hot jam or jelly. Just turn them over immediately and leave them upside down for fifteen minutes. The boiling hot jam will sterilize the inside of the lid. I was taught this by a friend and learned subsequently that this is the way the French traditionally make jam.

Polishing Silver FAST

From my friend Joanne McGrath--

Cover the bottom of a glass or plastic pan with aluminum foil.  (If you have a lot of silver to do you can also just cover the bottom of your sink.)  

Pour in 1 Cup of boiling water and add 2 tsps of baking soda and 1 tsp of salt.  Stir to dissolve.  

Drop silver pieces in and make sure each piece is touching.

Rinse and dry.

Getting Rid of Bees' and Wasps' Nests

Go out at night after all the bees/wasps have gone to bed.  Take a can of Raid -- the black label with the big black nozzle for "Wasp and Hornet" -- and maybe a pair of garden or oven gloves just so you don't get the spray on you.  Also take a flashlight.  Get to within 10-15 feet of the nest, shine your light on the hole at the bottom of it, and spray away.  Then spray the whole nest.  In the morning, go and have a look.  Without the constant rebuilding of the wasps, the walls of the nest will have already begun to flake off and float away in the morning breeze and the whole structure will begin to look skeletal -- a lost civilization.

Paris for Jane and Ted

General Paris Info

Telephone

In Paris – all phone numbers (except cell phones) begin 01 – and then 4 pairs (ie. Eight numbers) – so 01-56-24-37-56 would be given as “zero un, cinquante-six, vingt-quatre, trente-sept, cinquante-six.

To dial U.S. dial 001 and then area code and number.

Transportation

Metro Nearest to you is Odéon.   Mabillon, Saint Germain des Prés, Saint Sulpice are also nearby.

Nearby bus lines: 39, 48, 63, 70, 84, 86, 87, 95, 96.

Taxi stand is at the corner of rue du Four and Bd. Saint Germain (on BNP [i.e. north] side of rue du Four.  To call a taxi from that stand: 01-43-29-00-00)  There is almost certainly a taxi stand at Odéon.  Get the phone number – listed at the stand.  And then you can always call for a cab.  Or just go to the stand and sooner rather than later one will come along.  (Remember that many of the bus lines stop running between 9 and 10 in the evening so you may want to take a taxi home – or the metro which runs until 1 am.)

 In Odéon metro or St. Germain metro you can buy a carnet des billets (10 tickets) good for bus or subway.  Or, bring 2 extra passport pictures and – at same subway stations – buy a carte d”orange.  I think you might have to buy one for a month (mensuel) or maybe weekly (hebdomadaire) – but they run from Monday to Monday – so if you buy the weekly try to do it at its beginning.  And monthly means just that – October, November, etc.  I found the carte d’orange an enormous convenience – it let me hop on and off busses without thinking about the cost or about whether I had another billet.

 I have also learned to love the bus in Paris.  It goes everywhere very quickly and you get to see the terrain as you go.  

 We also have, courtesy of our first landlady (Julie Frey) a wonderful private taxi-man who we use to take us to the airport when we leave.    His name is Nejib Fejjari (just call him Nejib – neh-geeb) who will pick you up in his station wagon-taxi on time at your address and take you to CDG for around 50 euros plus tip.  He speaks excellent English.  He will also pick you up on your arrival – he’ll carry a sign with your name on it and meet you at the gate.  On arrival, he’ll charge you for the time he waits for you plus the cost of the ride in.  His mobile number is 06-60-33-26-27.  His telephone is 01-60-04-48-83.  He speaks English, and will carry a sign with your name on it, meet you at the gate.  He charges for the time he waits for you plus the cost of the ride in. 

 

 Money exchange

By far the easiest way to get Euros is to use a bank debit card with an international PIN – there’s an ATM machine about every two feet along St. Germain.  I used the one at the corner of Mabillon and the rue du Four, or the one at the corner of St. Germain and Odéon.  They give you the best exchange rate of the minute.

 

Getting into your building

The outside door to most every building is locked. It has a key but everyone always uses the pushbutton code to get in.  After you enter your code you’ll hear a click – then push the door open.  Then you’ll be in a dark hallway.  Somewhere near the door you’ll see two lighted buttons – push the one marked lumière. 

The other button -- marked “porte” -- is the one you’ll have to push when you want to go out.

The lights are on timers, and stay on for about a minute.  If you ever find yourself trapped in a dark hallway, look for a little light-- it will probably have the light button -- minuterie [me-new-TREE] attached to it.

 

Movies, Concerts, etc.

Every Wednesday buy Pariscope – a little magazine printed on very thin paper that costs 60 cents and will tell you everything that’s going on in Paris – movies, concerts, plays, museums, etc.

 Movies: change every Wednesday all over Paris.  There are three large movie theaters in Odéon each of which shows 4 movies at a time.  When choosing a movie (either at the theatre or in Pariscope) make certain in the description of English language movies that it says “V.O,” which stands for “version originale.” (Otherwise, it might have been dubbed into French.)

If you go to the movies, buy whatever you want to munch on somewhere else – they have nothing in the theatre.   

Food Shopping

Basic grocery supplies are cheapest at two nearby supermarchés: Monoprix (50 rue de Rennes at the corner of St. Germain), and Champion—closer to you with entrances on the rue de Seine and the rue de Buci.  Both deliver for about 10 euros, and are good for staples (toilet paper, toothbrushes, booze, etc.).   Good wines, coffee, jams, canned goods, etc.

Also, Monoprix is good for anything – nightgowns, underwear, t-shirts, coffee mugs, scotchtape – they’re all over but the one at St. Germain is particularly excellent.

On the rue Quatre Vents which is quite near you is a small but well-stocked grocery store (basics, wine, and fruits and veg) that stays open until 11 pm every night.  Very handy.

Lovely neighborhood wine store – La Derniere Goutte – at 6, rue Bourbon le Chateau (at the corner of rue de l’Échaudé).  They put up notices about tastings and it’s fun to go – although in terms of buying wines I did just as well at Champion.

The Saint Germain market has marvelous food of all sorts, from 7am-1pm Tues-Sun and 4-7:30pm Tues-Sat. (closed Mon.).

 

Dry Cleaning & Laundry

A nice dry-cleaner and laundry is on rue de Seine ½ block south of St. Germain.  A do-it yourself laundry is on the rue Lobineau.

Bakeries

At the corner of the rue de Seine and the rue Lobineau is Gérard MULOT (closed Weds.) one of the best "traiteurs" in Paris.  In addition to having fabulous macaroons, divine bread, wonderful cakes they also have a wide range of cooked dishes to take home, and wonderful homemade candies. This is definitely the best place in the neighborhood to buy bread – baked fresh 3 or 4 times per day.  Also very nice sandwiches to take with you for the plane ride home.

More haute (not for bread but for beautiful cakes and very fancy macaroons and chocolates) is Pierre Hermé on the rue Bonaparte – just off the corner of the rue aux Vieux Colombier.

Not in the neighborhood – but while I’m on bakeries I have to mention them – is Louis Constant on the rue d”Assas and the rue Fleurus – fabulous chocolates and great pain raisin and pain chocolat.

Also, a  bakery that is also a good place for lunch—Bread and Roses – on the corner of the rue Madame and the rue Fleurus.

And, the name unknown bakery on the main street of the Ile St. Louis – the rue St. Louis en l”isle—just across from the Catholic school and church.  We have not been able to decide which of the two (Constant or this) has the better pain raisin.  

 

Neighborhood Restaurants

Two Cafes – nice lunches, salads, sandwiches, omlettes –

1)    Chaix (sp?) de L’Abbaye at the corner of the rue de Seine and the rue de Bourbon le Chateaux.  I love this café.

2)    At the Carrefour croix Rouge – the only café on the circle – near the rue de Grenelle – wonderful open-faced sandwiches – great if you’ve been shopping.

 

NB: All French restaurants like to have been called – even if only a half an hour ahead of time – to be asked if they have a table.  Being taken for granted seems to make them huffy.  So, if we’re on the way to a restaurant, I’ll call them on my cell phone and ask if they could have a table for us 15 minutes from then. 

 

Aux Charpentiers

10, rue Mabillon

01 43 26 30 05

A real neighborhood, old-fashioned place – delicious and open until 11:30 at night!  Not cheap but not expensive – a good meal and wine for $25-30 per.

You probably need to reserve on Friday or Sat evening.  Also lovely for lunch in cool weather – only a small sidewalk for outside eating.

 

Les Editeurs

4, Carrefour de l’Odeon

8 to 2h du matin

A new literary café – moderately expensive for what it is but a nice place to get a drink and watch the crowd.

 

Le Comptoir

Right across the street from Les Editeurs and now a hot, hot restaurant.    9, Carrefour de l’Odéon.  01 44 27 07 97.  Hard to get a dinner reservation but you can try.  And if you show up for lunch (no reservations then) you can sometimes get a table.  Good food and very small bistro-ish.

 

Bon Saint Pourcain

10 bis rue Servadoni

01 43 54 93 63

A tiny, tiny restaurant behind St. Sculpice.  Lovely on a cold evening.

 

Allard

rue des St. André des Arts – corner of rue de l”Éperon

A charming old-line bistro that has seen better days but is still really good.  Have anything with beurre blanc.

 

Les Bouquinistes

53, Quai des Grands Augustins

75006

01 43 25 45 94

email: bouquinistes@guysavoy.com

The restaurant of the son of Guy Savoy – very chic, very delicious, a bit expensive, fun.

 

Ze Kitchen Gallery

4 rue des Grands Augustins

01 44 32 00 32

email: zekitchen.galerie@wanadoo.fr

Also very “in” and not inexpensive –  fun, minimalist décor and really good food.

 

Restaurant des Beaux Arts

80 rue Mazarine

01-43-25-71-16

Another neighborhood restaurant – good but not as good as Charpentiers.

 

 

Food in the 3^rd

 

L’Apparemment

18, rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais

01 48 87 12 22

Behind Picasso Museum – lots of couches – very good, large salads – for lunch.

 

 

Food in the 4^th

Benôit

20, rue St. Martin

01 42 72 25 76

Our favorite.  We had partridge here on thanksgiving day.  And we’ve had many wonderful meals here over the years.  It’s great, old-fashioned bistro cooking.  (The Petit family has been cooking here for 3 generations.) Ask to sit in the front room.  Have whatever game is on the menu or some wonderful beef in red wine.  And have 3 deserts: the cold grand marnier soufflé, the gateau pruneau and the lemon tart.  And say hello to Ghislaine – the lady who will greet you at the door.

They are open from 12 to 2 and from 8 to 10.  Must reserve!

NB: Last year the restaurant was sold to a big restauranteur (I forget which) and the menu has changed.  But it’s still good – and in the fall you can have game.

 

Le Loir dans la Thière

3, rue des Rosiers

Pleasantly run-down stylish, shabby chic, very popular place for lunch, brunch, tea.  Lots of people with their children, young things on sofas.  If you go on Saturday or Sunday you’ll never get in.

Right down the block from the most expensive shopping in Paris.  Browse in L’eclaireur  for beautiful clothes that cost as much as a house.

 

Janou (or chez Janou?)  2 rue Roger Verlomme.   01 42 72 28 41.  Lovely to eat outside – must have the chocolate mousse for dessert.

 

 

Caveau du Palais

Place Dauphine – western tip of Ile de la Cité

01 43 26 04 28

Lovely eating out in one of the most charming spots – food is perfectly pleasant.

 

Food in the 5^th

 

Restaurant Ziryaz

Institut du Monde Arabe, 9^th Floor

1, rue des Fosses Saint-. 01-53-10-10-16

Enormously elegant, chic, restaurant on top of the Institut – with a great view of Paris and a beautiful terrace for a drink. Lovely for lunch.  Reservations .

 

Food in the 7th

 

Le Café des Lettres

53 rue de Verneuil

01 42 22 52 17

If you find yourself at the Musée d’Orsay at lunch or tea time this is a nice spot with a cool interior garden that serves good scandivian food.  No need to reserve – just show up.

 

La Cigale

11 bis rue Chomel

01-45-48-87-87

Soufflés of all descriptions – meat, desert – and truly scrumptious.  Have the caramel and sel.  Most fun to go for lunch and a reservation is an absolute must.  Ask to sit in the front room – the back room is very small and cramped.  It’s also around the corner from Bon Marché, so you can do some shopping before or after.

 

 

Atelier Joel Robouchon

Rue montalembert

11:30 – 15:30 or 6:30 – 24:00

01-42-22-56-56

This is the chicest and most delicious and most ridiculous of them all.  They don’t take reservations --- unless you’re willing to come at 11:30 am or 6:30 pm, the hours at which they open.  The rest of the time you come to the door (black glass) which you cannot open and the hostess comes to the door, takes your name, and tells you to come back in X minutes (30, 45 – whatever).  We went  at 3:00 in the afternoon on a day that we were going to the opera – and then just had a snack after the opera.  Food is great.

 

Museums

Within easy walking distance is the Musee du Luxembourg and the Musee d’Orsay.  I think the Orsay has become a big pain in the ass – endlessly crowded – but if they have a show you want to see it’s okay.  There’s a restaurant around the corner that’s really nice –

 

The Musee du Luxembourg has wonderful small shows – go – or reserve first on line and then go.  I don’t know what’s on right now unless the Arcimboldo show is still on.  After that it’s Vlaminck.  You can reserve at time and tickets on line.

 

Tickets --  while we’re on the subject any tickets you order on line can be picked up at the FNAC store on Blvd St. Germain just one block past (east of) Odeon. Or you can also go there to buy tickets for just about anything – concerts, museums, events in churches….

 

The Musee d”Architecture et Patrimoine has just re-opened –  absolutely wonderful models and drawings of all of France’s major monuments.  Not really our cup of tea but really smart, reliable people have said it’s a must go.

 

And down the block is the Musee de Tokyo – contemporary art – with a really nice place for lunch and a great gift and bookshop.

 

The Musee Jacquemart-Andre on the Blvd Hausmann is often overlooked but it’s very good.  It often has good traveling shows and some of my favorite Rembrandts and Tiepolos. And right now, Fragonard, I think.

 

And The Grand Palais has a Courbet show right now – wish I were there!  They have wonderful shows that are way too large but often just wonderful in an encyclopedic sort of way.  

Two Days in Rome

Notes prepared for a friend who had two days in Rome -- 

Here’s what you have to do in Rome –  I’ve arranged the sights into chunks of time and neighborhoods so that you can walk from one thing to another – and have a little lunch in between –

You must see The Domus Aurea – which on and under the Esquilino hill overlooking the Coliseum and the Forum.  This was Nero's golden house (75,000 square  feet) which he built for himself by appropriating the land of the nobility. (Not a popular move.)  The house, most of it still underground (reason to follow) is filled with the most gorgeous mosaics and wall paintings in a style that Nero invented and which we now call the "grotesque."  (Those beautiful half animals half people that are on italian dishes and stationery....)  The rooms are huge - the “vaulted ceiling” that Severus invented for Nero allowed them to be so  -- and so the Domus was new and startling both in its architecture  and decoration.

After Nero's death, (the nobles gave him a choice: they would kill him or he could kill himself) Vespasian and then Trajan plowed under (literally) the Domus Aurea and built the Coliseum and public baths on the land. (A popular move.)

Then -- skip from 68 to 1490 -- Raphael and some of his buddies fall into a sink hole in the hillside and discover the Domus and its grotesques -- and then it's the style that Raphael uses to decorate the  Loggia in the Vatican and the Villa Madama.

When you go, call up and make a reservation for a tour – contrary to your instincts but you must go with one of the on site guides -- very informative and since what has been restored is fragmentary they can fill in the missing parts.

Near by is another favorite of ours -- in fact you can walk from one to the other -- San Clemente -- a church that has three layers that have been excavated.  The lowest down is a Mithraic temple from the 2nd or 3rd century.  Next, the lower church is I think from the 8th or 9th century and then on top of it all you have a medieval basilica.  As you go down through the layers, you feel that you're traveling back in time.  It's quite fabulous.

 You can do both San Clemente and the Domus Aurea in one afternoon, walking from one to the other (10-15 minutes) if you’re energetic.  If you have to chose take the Domus Aurea.

This next chunk is a whole bunch of smaller stuff all of which is wonderful and at which you could spend happily a whole day.  Around the Pantheon, there are several great, great things that it's possible to have missed.

 If you want a divine, small museum with a great collection, (think Frick) go to the Doria Pamphili on the Piazza Collegio Romano. Spend 45 minute there and make sure you see Velasquez’ portrait of Pope Innocent X – some think it’s the greatest single painting in Rome. 

 Walk from there to the west, down the via Pie di Marmo and see the big marble foot that’s been left out in the road. 

Continue west and at the Piazza della Minerva, go right and in the courtyard of the Santa Maria sopra Minerva see the Bernini elephant.  Inside the church, see the tombs of St. Catherine of Siena and Fra Angelico, the frescoes of Filippino Lippi in the Carafa Chapel and, most importantly, the Michelangelo statue of Christ carrying the cross that is as muscular and sexy as anything.  

Walk north and in one block you’re at the Pantheon.  Have a drink in the piazza.  It’s a great square – or go to Fortunato al Pantheon for lunch.  

Then go two steps north and take a left on the Via Giustiniani to S. Luigi dei Francesi -- there is the deservedly famous and absolutely stunning Caravaggio of the Calling of St. Matthew by the Angel -- bring coins for the light box -- the painting leaps out of the darkness.

Go west – for one block (past the Italian Senate) and you’re on the Corso del Rinascimento and a shopping opportunity.  Go to the divinely old fashioned store of Santa Maria Novella and buy some pasta di mandorle (almond paste cream) – the best hand cream ever made.

Then continue west one block and you’re at the Piazza Navona – bliss – but don’t eat anything there – expensive and awful.  Do go across the square to S. Agnese in Agone – Borromini’s wonderful baroque church and the weird and wonderful sculpture of St. Agnes in flames.

Continue west and on the next street over, the Hotel Raphael is to your right.  They have a nice outdoor space in front of the hotel for eating and a rooftop bar.  For something less expensive and still lovely go over one more block to the via dei Pace and to the Café della Pace – next to a charming church also of the same name.  The café is a quiet and tasty refuge from the gorgeous but bustling Navona.

Then go south, across the busy Corso Emanuele II, to the Camp dei Fiori – where there is a huge, wonderful open-air market (fruits, veg, wine, cheese) every morning.  IN FACT, IF YOU WANTED TO YOU COULD START IN THE MORNING AT THE MARKET AND MAKE YOUR WAY BACKWARDS THROUGH THIS LITTLE TOUR, ENDING UP AT THE DORIA PAMPHILI.

Past the Campo, in and around the old Jewish Ghetto, there are a few small charming places to see:

--The trompe l'oiel collonade in the courtyeard of Palazzo Spada – just east of the Piazza de Quercia –

--The Fontana delle Tartarughe in Piazza Mattei

And if you have any energy left, continue south, cross the Tiber at the Ponte Garibaldi and walk your up to Santa Maria in Trastevere – a beautiful church in a fun neighborhood.  And have a drink.                                                                                                                                                               

Eating --

Of the "big" places (Al Moro, Dal Bolognese) our favorite was Quinzi  & Gabrieli -- because we had the best oysters ever.

Of the smaller places, we loved Fortunato al Pantheon -- on the via del Pantheon -- a fave of the folks at the American Academy.

And for a really small, delicious, neighborhood place, Ditirambo - on the  Piazza della Cancelleria (near the Campo dei Fiori).  If you have only one night eat at Ditirambo – not open for lunch.

Istanbul

We had two favorite days in Istanbul – both of them out of the center.

 The first day, we started up at the western outskirts of the city at the Chora Church and Kariye Muzesi – with the most gorgeous mosaics.  Then we started the long walk back into town – mostly downhill! – going through wonderful local neighborhoods and stopping at all the mosques on the way.  (Women should bring or wear a sweater and carry a scarf – coverings for arms and head.) So, we walked down the Draman Cadesi to the Fethiye Caddesi, and stopped at the Fethiye Camii.  Then down the Manyasizade Caddesi and the Darussafaka Caddesi (stopping at many very small mosques) to the Fatih Mosque (where they let us attend service – I sat with the women -- who were very hospitable).  Then we made our way downhill, a little towards the Ataturk bridge to a lovely terrace restaurant – Zeirekhane (part of the Zeyrek Camii, the Church of Christ Pantocrator) on Ibadethane/Arkasi sk. -- with gorgeous views over the city.  Had a little to eat and some nice wine.  Then we walked back into town and went to the Grand Bazaar.

 Another day, we took the boat up to Eyup, to the mosque of Eyup.  He was Mohammed’s standardbearer during the siege of Constantinople and he is buried at the mosque.  His tomb is a shrine and this mosque is the third most popular pilgrimage shrine.  The crowds are wonderful – all the little boys in their white suits come here before they go home to be circumcised – and the ride to and fro and the view is spectacular.  Afterwards, we took the ferry back to Eminonu and then went to the Rustem Pasa Camii (small, lovely mosque) the spice bazaar and then the Suleymaniye Camii – and there are some nice cafes across the street.

 We had a very nice trip to the Asian side one day – went from Besiktas to Uskudar.  If you do that, there’s a nice lunch (not so atmospheric but good food that they let you pick out yourself) down towards the harbor at a place called Kanaat. 

 In the evening, once, you should go down the Nevizade Sokak – a crowded, lively, closed-to-cars street with wall-to-wall sidewalk restaurants.  We ate at a Greek restaurant (Imroz) that was just okay – but you can just pick any one of the many and sit outside and enjoy the people and eat a fairly good meal. 

And two places were recommended to us by Turkish people that we never got to.  First, a “pudding shop” on Divan Yolu Caddesi.  (Who knows?)  And second, a restaurant in Kadikoy – The Giya – near Altunizade Mabeyin – recommended for lunch or dinner.  I think the pudding shop sounds wonderful.

 There are some mosques that are supposed to be great on the Asian side that we never got to – all by the same architect – Sinan – one is Semsi Pasa Camii and the other is Atik Valide Camii.   Also 2 cafés with panoramic views– Yucetepe Kir Gazinosu and Katibim – missed them also.  We’ll just have to go back.